Albania

Albania is an extremely underrated country in Southeastern Europe that is quickly gaining popularity. Located right between Greece and Montenegro, the coastline is just as beautiful and has been dubbed the "Albanian Riviera." In the North of Albania lies the Accursed Mountains, home to some amazing hiking and crystal-clear blue mountain springs.

Albania also has a fascinating modern history. Under a repressive dictator named Enver Hoxha, Albania suffered tremendously and became the 3rd poorest country in the world in 1985 with an average wage of $15 per month. During the subsequent decades, Albania struggled to recover and large crime networks contributed to its reputation as a dangerous location.

However, this couldn't feel further from the truth when you're in Albania. The country has made tremendous strides to recover and I felt extremely safe when I was there. Albanians were all very welcoming people. Only becoming a popular tourist destination in the last 5 years, Albania is still a bit rough around the edges with hotels springing up everywhere. Go before it gets as crowded and popular as Croatia and Greece!

• Transport
  • Mini-buses (called "Furgons") — the most popular mode of intercity transport are a massive network of mini-buses called Furgons that will take you just about anywhere in Albania ranging from small towns to cities. Gjirafa.com is by far the best resource for bus schedules and routes
    • Furgons are very cheap and comfortable, but don't expect them to run on time and they tend to stop in random places for locals to get off. The main "bus station" in Tirana is just a chaotic parking lot with 100+ vans and drivers shouting destinations
  • Taxi & Ridesharing — There are a few ridesharing apps in Albania. However, it was pretty unreliable to get a ride. I found taxis to be fair as long as you negotiate or ask around for pricing beforehand
• Google Maps — is unreliable when it comes to hiking paths: download AllTrails or maps.me as a backup
• Mostly cash is used in Albania, primarily the Albania Lek, but also the Euro at times. ATMs are easy to find, but make sure you keep a bit of extra cash on hand
• How long to spend — I would recommend spending 2 weeks in Albania for a first timer. This will allow you to see all the highlights of Albania ranging from the Albanian Riviera, hike in the Accursed mountains and explore Tirana without feeling too rushed

The Albanian Riviera lies on the Southwestern coast of Albania stretching from Vlorë all the way down to Ksamil near the border with Greece. It is home to some of the most clear blue-green water that I have ever seen and is comparable to Greece but with way fewer tourists. There is a strong Greek influence throughout the area with a large Greek minority, Greek food everywhere and Greek signage all over town.

There are many towns along the Albanian coast that you could spend your time in, but I chose to spend my time in Himarë which was a gorgeous little town in the middle of the riviera. All of my tips will be about Himarë, but similar activities are available all across the coast. However, there are plenty of other locations you can visit:

• The two largest towns and main transport hubs are Vlorë in the North and Sarandë in the South
• Vlorë — I had a quick stop in Vlorë and wouldn't recommend it staying there as the beach really wasn't special
• Sarandë — largest town on the Albanian riviera. It has the most beach clubs, restaurants and nightlife. A great stop if you are taking the ferry from Corfu and coming to/from Greece
• Ksamil — known to have the most beautiful water and beaches in Albania, but it is also very popular so expect it to be packed during the high season. Located ~30 minutes away from Sarandë
• Smaller, more quaint towns along the coast include Dhërmi (white Greek town), Porto Palermo (castle and secluded bay), and Borsh (quiet and hippy vibes)

• Grama Bay Boat Tour — if you're looking to visit some amazing beaches with incredibly blue water, this is the tour for you. Many of the beaches are only accessible by boat so there aren't many other tourists here. Stops include Pigeon's Cave, Gjipe Beach, Pirate's Cave and a mermaid cave
• The highlight of this tour was the final stop at Grama Bay which is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Make sure you do the short hike (~20 minutes) up to the top of Grama for the best views of the beach below
• The particular tour I booked was run by Himare Seas the Day, leaving from the main harbor in Himare. It cost ~70€ which felt expensive, but the experience was incredible with a very funny captain
• Visit the beaches — there are a plethora of beaches that you can visit while in Himarë. I've ranked them in descending order starting with my favorites:
• Filikuri Beach — 30-minute hike from town, one of my favorite beaches in all of Europe with the clearest blue-green water. The descent is steep and sketchy: you have to climb down a rock face with a rope. You can also take a water taxi if that sounds like too much. The view from above is amazing as well and the beach wasn't crowded at all when I was there
• Aquarium Beach — a 30-minute uphill hike from Livadi Beach in the heat, but worth every step. A small hidden alcove with a bar and probably the clearest water on the riviera. You could literally see the fish swimming from above. The beach is really tiny so it tends to get crowded
• Spile Beach — the main public beach in Himarë right next to town, right along the promenade with beautiful water. There are free umbrellas here if you're looking to chill, but it can get a bit crowded in the summer
• Livadi Beach — a very big beach stretching for miles lined with beach clubs and restaurants. It is worth stopping at the roof of the abandoned hotel above the beach for a spectacular view over the water. The trail up is covered in pines and a few old communist-era bunkers
• Jale Beach — a beach located a 20-minute drive from Himarë. It gets good reviews online, but I found it to be more commercialized and not particularly special. I wouldn't go out of your way for it
• Coastal hike — if you're feeling active, you can hike north along the coastline from Himare and hit almost all of these beaches in one day connecting Spile Beach → Livadi Beach → Aquarium Beach → Jale Beach (about 7 miles or 11 km total).
• There is no official path or road on Google Maps, but it is a pretty clear path in real-life along the ocean that connects all these beaches. You'll pass by many of Albania's 750,000 bunkers scattered throughout the country side. It can get very hot during the summer so bring plenty of water
• Old Town Himarë — located 45-minute uphill walk (or short taxi ride) from main town of Himarë and the beach. It is a completely abandoned castle and church. It felt very peaceful with goats and a donkey grazing under olive trees. It isn't particularly impressive so feel free to skip if you don't have enough time
• Stop at Butterfly Cafe for a beer and Trilece cake. It is a small family-run cafe with vines growing across the terrace roof and a view of the bay below. I went hiking 14 miles in 90-degree heat and it was exactly what I needed

• Guma Restaurant — a nice restaurant located right on the promenade in Himarë
• I Love Souvlaki — a great place along the promenade to get Greek food, very quick and affordable
• Fast-Food Burbo — the town bakery that is very popular among locals. Try the Zabontiropita (ham and cheese pastry) and dhallë, the Albanian sour milk that locals drink with everything
• Tonea's All Day Brunch & Café (Livadi Beach area) — boho-style restaurant with a very friendly staff
• Butterfly Cafe (Old Town Himarë) — a small family run restaurant with a great view of the bay below and amazing Trilece cake

• Beleri House (Airbnb) — a great Airbnb apartment located right on the end of Himare with a great view of the beach, fast internet and relatively affordable
• Himara Downtown Hostel — one of the most popular hostels in town. My friends had a blast staying here

This is an amazing hike in the Accursed Mountains (Albanian Alps) in Northern Albania. The hike is complete with impressive mountains, mountain springs filled with bright blue alpine waters, cute little mountain villages and the famous Blue Eye of Theth. This ended up being one of the best travel experiences I've ever had between the scenery, the amazing people I met and the amazing vibe at the guesthouses.

While you can organize this hike by yourself, I highly recommend that you do it with Wanderer's Hostel in Shkoder. They organize the entire experience (transport, lodging, food) for around 160€ and it makes the experience a lot more social. Make sure to book a couple months in advance during in summer since they fill up fast! Contact them via email: hostelshkoder@hotmail.com

• The hike starts in the city of Shkoder located in Northern Albania (~2.5 hours by bus from Tirana)
• The whole hike runs 3 days, but you need to arrive in Shkoder the night before the hike for a briefing from Wanderer's Hostel
• If you book with Wanderer's Hostel, they will organize both transport and food which is a lifesaver. Just get to the start of the hike, you'll need to take a bus and a ferry and a bus again so just imagine organizing that on your own in rural Albania!
• The hike starts in Valbona, but you first need to get to Shkoder (roughly 2.5 hours by bus from Tirana).
• From Shkoder the journey runs: 3-hour bus to Komani → 3-hour ferry along a stunning canyon to Fierze → 1-hour bus to Valbona. Long day, but the ferry through the canyon is worth the trip on its own — gray jagged mountains on both sides, blue-green water below, no agenda

• This experience runs best over 4 days:
  • Day 1 — Arrive Shkoder: you'll need to arrive the day before for your briefing of the hike. Check into Wanderer's Hostel, get oriented and an employee of the hostel will run you through the hiking route and overall itinerary. It may be an overwhelming amount of information, but is straight-forward when you start hiking. The hostel runs a group dinner in the evening which is a good way to meet the people you'll be hiking with
  • Shkoder is a nice town itself so go for a walk to explore the town. If you're interested in photography, stop by the Marubi Museum. It is a small museum with photographs documenting Albanian life in the 1920s–1940s with traditional weddings, royal families, and early events in the country's history
  • Day 2 — Shkoder to Valbona: this day is mostly a transport day to get to Valbona (the town at the start of the hike). From Shkoder the journey runs: 3-hour bus to Komani → 3-hour ferry along a stunning canyon to Fierze → 1-hour bus to Valbona
  • The ferry through the canyon is beautiful with gray jagged mountains on both sides and blue-green water below
  • When you arrive in Valbona in the early afternoon, check into Arben Selimaj Guesthouse. We spent the rest of the afternoon chilling by the beautiful blue stream right at the entrance with mountains all around and getting to know the other backpackers on the hike. There is a communal dinner, then everyone packs sandwiches for the next day
  • Day 3 — Valbona to Theth (The Main Hike):
  • This hike is 9miles or 15km long and takes 5–6 hours total. It didn't feel particularly challenging and there are a lot of places to stop along the way
  • The journey starts at 6AM and vans take you to the trailhead. The hike is forested at first, then becomes a steep white gravel climb to the summit. The best moment: turning back on that gravel slope to see the entire Valbona valley laid out below you.
  • The peak is the perfect place to stop for lunch. There is a huge Albanian flag flying at the top and you have a beautiful view of the valley below. Along the way, you'll run into some local dogs and wild horses as well
  • We finished the hike pretty early at 1PM and checked into Dreni Guesthouse in town of Theth. This was a gorgeous lodge that served some great dinner and had some benches to hangout and have some beers in the evening
  • In the afternoon, do the Theth Waterfall hike (1 extra hour from the guesthouse). There is a huge waterfall with a cold pool and rocks to sit on. I highly recommend it. The hike is pretty short and this is when the whole group really comes together
  • Day 4 — Blue Eye from Theth (optional): Wanderer's hostel allows people to skip the last day, but DO NOT skip it as this was the highlight of the hike for me
  • It is a 3-hour hike each way that is much flatter than the main hike, but with less forest cover. The hike ends at the Blue Eye of Theth, a gorgeous bright blue spring fed by a waterfall surrounded by cliffs. The water comes from melted alpine glaciers so be prepared for freezing temperatures. If you're feeling brave, you can also cliff jump from here
  • On the way back, stop for a swim in a gorge with bright blue water and striking red and white stones (the colors genuinely reminded me of Utah).
  • The next day there are a few different buses back to Shkoder which depart from a restaurant at the end of the trail

I found Tirana to be pretty skippable, but you'll likely fly in or pass through. I'm not going to lie and say it is the prettiest city, but it is the best place to learn about Albanian history, particularly the oppressive North Korea-like regime of Enver Hoxha. You'll be able to see all the highlights in just one day (or even just half a day).

• Bunk'Art 1 or 2 — one of the best museums I visited in the Balkans. For over 40 years, Albania had one of the most oppressive regimes in the world led by a man named Enver Hoxha. It is fascinating to learn about this dictator (that you've probably never heard of). It is located underground in an old nuclear bunker converted into a museum
• There are two locations Bunk'Art 1 (original location on the outskirts of Tirana) and Bunk'Art 2 (newer location located in the city center)
• The museum is very dark, but it was absolutely fascinating. I won't spoil all of it, but here is a taste of what you'll learn about:
• Albania became a hermit state (like North Korea) with guard dogs and barbed wire along the border designed to keep people in. Only 2,800 people per year visited Albania then, compared to 12 million in 2025
• Foreigners who were even allowed in were forced to get specific haircuts at the airport on arrival
• There was a KGB-like network where people would inform on political opponents
• Skanderbeg Square — main square with huge statue of the national hero and an Albanian flag. It is surrounded by the National Museum, Et'hem Bej Mosque, Bunk'Art 2 and the Clock Tower Of Tirana
• Tirana Pyramid — a giant, modern concrete pyramid with stairs you can climb for a view of the city. Not particularly impressive, but located right by Skanderbeg Square
• Blloku neighborhood — formerly exclusive to communist party members, now the fancy neighborhood. You can visit Enver Hoxha's old house. There are a lot of bunkers here too, a reminder of how many of these are scattered across the entire country
• Tirana Castle — if you're expecting an impressive European castle (like I was), be prepared to be disappointed. It was mostly destroyed except for the outer walls and it is now filled with upscale, touristy restaurants. You can visit the New Bazaar inside here if you're looking to do a bit of shopping

• Thethi Bakery — a small little bakery across from the North/South bus station, great if you're catching a bus to somewhere else in Albania

• Bearded Dad Hostel — a very social hostel with group dinners and lots of activities. A good place to meet people before heading north for the hike
• Blue Door Hostel — the sister hostel to Bearded Dad. Also very social with group dinners and activities like trivia

There are plenty of other places to consider that I didn't visit in Albania that came highly recommended by other travelers:

• Sarandë — largest town on the Albanian riviera. It has the most beach clubs, restaurants and nightlife. A great stop if you are taking the ferry from Corfu and coming to/from Greece
  • Combine it with the nearby towns of Gjirokastër (historic town), the Blue Eye and Ksamil (the "maldives" of Albania)
• Ksamil — known to have the most beautiful water and beaches in Albania, but it is also very popular so expect it to be packed during the high season. Located ~30 minutes away from Sarandë
• Dhërmi — a small, picturesque white town along the coast near Himarë. It is supposed to be more upscale and quiet than Himarë

• Gjirokastër — a beautiful stone town from the Ottoman Era in the south of Albania near the Greek border. Supposedly the best historic town in Albania
• Berat — Ottoman city with thousands of windows, located in Central Albania roughly 2 hours from Tirana. It is possible to do a day trip from Tirana, but challenging to do unless you take a guided day tour
• Krujë — a small historic town within an hour from Tirana. You can stay overnight in the Castle of Krujë and the sunset is nice. It might be the best option to visit a historic Albanian town if you are short on time as Gjirokastër and Berat are challenging day trips from Tirana