India

There is no place on Earth like India. It is simultaneously the most overwhelming and most unforgettable place I've traveled. When you first hit the ground here, it'll be sensory overload from the first moment. India operates in extremes: chaotic streets, sacred cows wandering everywhere, staggeringly intricate monuments and deep layered cultural traditions.

I would not recommend India for all travelers. Be honest with yourself on your level of comfort with cleanliness and aggressive touts. I wanted the full, raw India backpacker experience with third-class trains, hostels and independent travel. However, there are definitely more comfortable ways to travel with tours and private drivers (all of which are affordable).

I say this not to discourage travel to India, but to make sure you're prepared and not caught off guard. India rewards you enormously if you go in mentally prepared and keep an open mind to roll with the chaos. As I said earlier, there is no place on Earth like India.

For my first time in India, I did the "Golden Triangle" circuit. This is a classic route in Northern India covering: the Capital of Delhi, the Taj Mahal in Agra and the Pink City of Jaipur. I added on the holy city of Varanasi on the Ganges which came highly recommended by other solo travelers. If you're doing a similar route, I would suggest spending 10 to 14 weeks since these places are all located relatively close to each other.

• Safety — India is very safe when it comes to violent crimes and pickpocketing. However, there are relentless scammers, especially at popular tourist sites, that don't respect personal boundaries. On many occasions, I was followed for 10+ minutes by taxi drivers and tour guides, which was exhausting even as an experienced solo traveler. The majority of Indians were very friendly. Just come prepared and don't let these people ruin it for you
• I only can speak from a male perspective. Unfortunately, women need to take additional precautions and here is an article describing an experience of a solo woman. I did meet a number of solo women traveling in India and got a range of experiences from no issues to stories of harassment
• Getting around
• Uber — it is widely available in India and an absolute lifesaver. Tuk-tuk and taxi drivers can be very aggressive and it is helpful to have the security of knowing exactly where your driver is taking you. Just take Uber or use their prices to bargain when it's available avoid unnecessary friction
• Trains — India is home to one of the most well-connected train systems and can get you almost anywhere around the country extremely affordably. There is a huge difference among train classes with names like 1A, 2A, 3A all the way down to the lowest sleeper classes
• Indians typically recommend just buying the highest tier as it is still affordable. I did one trip in 3rd Class and it was quite the adventure. Use an aggregator like 12GO to book train tickets
• Buses — I took an overnight 10 hour sleeper bus from Varanasi to Agra and it was surprisingly very comfortable. I also booked online with 12GO
• Domestic Flights — for longer journeys, there are a lot of domestic flights available on local airlines. Flights are extremely affordable. I flew from Delhi to Varanasi on Indigo for just $30
• Money — India might be the cheapest place I've ever traveled to. Meals, taxis, hostels and train tickets were sometimes a few cents ranging to up to $5. The official currency is the Indian Rupee and make sure to carry cash at all times
• Food — Indian food is incredible so don't be afraid of trying new dishes! I could barely identify a lot of the food I was eating and really enjoyed the element of surprise. There are a lot of nuances to regional cuisines in India, stretching far beyond your typical Butter Chicken and cheese naan order at home
• You might be tempted to try every street food cart. However, I would air on the side of caution and mainly stick to busy chain restaurants and upscale restaurants early on until you get a feel for what's safe. As a foreigner, food poisoning is a real issue to watch out for since our stomachs aren't used to local food. I met other travelers who were stuck in the hospital for two weeks on end and that's really not how you want to spend your vacation
• Culture — with over 1.4 billion people and ~18% of the world's population, India is truly its own world. There is tremendous diversity in religions, languages and cultures
• Keeping this in mind, don't expect cultural norms to align with what is acceptable in the West. If you look like a foreigner, random people will want to take photos with you (like a celebrity!). If you stay in a hostel, personal space is treated very differently. Expect people turn on the lights or have calls at 5AM while you're sleeping
• Language — India is famous for having the second most English speakers in the world. English is widely spoken in big cities like Delhi. However, many people like taxi drivers and waiters outside of big cities didn't speak a word of English and were challenging to communicate with. You'll be able to get around, but be prepared for a bit of pointing and sign language

If you're flying into Northern India, the first place you'll likely be is Delhi. Home to over 35 million people, it is quite an overwhelming introduction to India. Explore the nation's layered capital with government buildings, Mughal forts and tombs, vast modern temples and some of the most chaotic markets on earth, all at once. I had a great time here and it was the perfect introduction to the country.

I would recommend spending 2 days here to explore the tourist sites. A tip to get around is: the Delhi Metro is very clean, safe and cheap (~$0.30 a ride). It is a great way to get around and the best way to skip the city's intense traffic.

• Akshardham Temple — a colossal modern Hindu temple complex. Every surface is intricately hand-carved with thousands of figures, deities and intricate floral patterns. The main area is a courtyard of lotus fountains with 10-foot statues. Akshardham Temple was arguably the most impressive temple of the whole trip. There is intense security before you enter with a strict cameras policy. The full complex is 100 acres so allow at least 3 hours to fully explore it
• Humayun's Tomb — a stunning Mughal tomb that directly inspired the Taj Mahal. A stunning red sandstone and white marble mausoleum with near-perfect symmetry, set in formal Persian gardens with a long waterway leading to the entrance. I found it to be one of the most underrated monuments in India and it had a fraction of the crowds of the Taj Mahal
• Red Fort — the massive red-sandstone Mughal fort which served as the seat of the Mughal empire for over 2000 years. Stretching over 250 acres in the heart of Old Delhi, inside the towering red walls are white marble palaces, ornate royal halls, an arched bazaar and a museum dedicated to Indian independence fighters. Allow 2–3 hours and combine with Chandni Chowk right across the street
• Chandni Chowk — one of the busiest markets in the entire world, located right across from the Red Fort. A dense bazaar packed shoulder-to-shoulder with electronics stalls, cloth merchants, marigold sellers and street food vendors. The smell, color and noise hit you all at once. Navigate by instinct and try the chaat, jalebi and paranthe along the way. The most chaotic street you will ever walk and completely unforgettable
• India Gate — a war memorial at the center of a large city park, built in 1931 to honor Indian soldiers killed in WWI. It feels a bit like the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, with the Parliament building and Presidential Palace in the distance. Nice at sunset when families come out and street food stalls set up around the park

• Haldiram's — a chain you'll find all over India with cafeteria-style food that is extremely cheap and food safe for Westerners. It probably isn't considered the best food in India, but it was a reliable spot to stop by if you're in a rush. I tried the Puri Sabzi (a potato curry with huge puffed bread, ~$2.40) for breakfast, and the thali combo (naans, several curries, rice and yogurt, ~$3.60) is an enormous lunch
• Bhalla Papdi — the street-snack of crunchy crackers and smashed potato under mint and mango chutney, yogurt and pomegranate. It is simultaneously sweet and savory and you can find it all over the city

• Hindustan Hostel — a barebones hostel that I stayed in while in Delhi. It was located in a sketchy area where I would not walk around at night. There are probably better places to stay in Delhi...

Agra is a city in Northern India and home to the Taj Mahal. The Taj Mahal is one of my favorite seven wonders of the world with awe-inspiring architecture and an incredible story to match. Don't miss Agra Fort while you're here. Most people do a day tour from New Delhi, but it is definitely worth spending a full day here so you're not in a rush.

• Taj Mahal — built out of solid white marble imported from Italy, the Taj Mahal is the most perfectly symmetrical building on earth. Every inch of the walls is inlaid with flowers of precious gem stones (green from China, turquoise from Tibet, sapphire from Sri Lanka) and the entire Quran is inscribed in black marble all throughout the buildings. Taking 22 years to build, Shah Jahan built the Taj Mahal for his wife who died in childbirth and completely bankrupting the Mughal Kingdom in the process.
• Crowds — go at sunrise if you want to beat the crowds and get the best pictures. The Taj Mahal was so massive that the crowds didn't seem to be much of an issue even during peak times
• Tour Guide — there is a beautiful love story behind the Taj Mahal and a lot of fascinating details you'll miss without a guide. I would suggest hiring one to pick up on all the details. There are plenty of guides standing outside of the complex. I paid $20 for a whole day with a private guide named Ashif. He was very knowledgeable, friendly, took me to a local restaurant and gave me a ride to Agra Fort for free after
• Photographer — inside the courtyard of the Taj Mahal, there will also be a ton of professional photographers offering to take your picture. If you're interested, agree on a price and number of photos beforehand. I paid ~2,000 rupees or $25 USD for 30 shots. Photographers can range up to $80 online if you book in advance. They know all the best angles and spots for photos
• Watch out for Scammers — embarrassingly, I fell for a scam here with a random guy approaching me, claiming to be the brother of my guide, Ashif (and even named him). He took me to a gift shop and tried to sell me a some plates. It was a harmless scam that only costed me a 10 minutes of my time, but just another thing to be aware of
• Enter from the East Entrance — if you enter from the original Mughal Taj Mahal east gate, every gate in a single flawless row. The Taj Mahal was built with an extreme level of attention to detail. The "Diana bench" on the main platform, where Princess Diana had her famous photo, is one of the most popular photo spots from here, but always has a line
• Agra Fort — a huge red-sandstone fort a 20-minute tuk-tuk from the Taj Mahal. It is often overlooked by tourists, but has a grand Mughal palace inside. After Shah Jahan bankrupted the Mughal Kingdom building the Taj Mahal, he planned to build an identical building made of Black Marble across the river for 20 times as much. His sons decided to arrest him to save the kingdom and he was imprisoned in Agra Fort for the rest of his life, with a direct of the Taj he built

• Joey's Hostel Agra — a great hostel in Agra with an incredible view of Agra from the roof

Jaipur is the "Pink City" and the third point of the Golden Triangle with Delhi and Agra. It is the capital of the Indian State of Rajasthan. It was by far my favorite stop in India due to its unique architecture and it was noticeably more cleaner and less chaotic than the other cities.

The old city is walled and painted a warm terracotta pink. You entered through grand arched gates and arrive in the old city that is packed with forts, palaces and bazaars. Two to three full days was enough time to explore the city. I would plan separate days to explore the old town (the palaces and observatory) and then the forts up on the surrounding hills.

• While exploring the old town, most sights are within walking distance from each other. You can also call Ubers or easily hail a Tuk-Tuk for longer distances
• The forts (Amber, Jaigarh and Nahargarh Fort) are up in the hills and hard to get rides back from. It's worth hiring a driver for the full day (~2,100 rupees / $24). You can use Uber Rental in India to hire a driver affordably for the full day or by the hour

• Old Town Jaipur — enter the walled Pink City through Ajmeri Gate, a huge three-arched gate characterized by the bright pink colors and detailed white paintings lining the outside of the city. Enclosed in the gates is the old city which is home to many attractions that are all walking distance from each other and easily explored in a day
• Hawa Mahal — a palace built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, the Hawa Mahal stands today as the symbol of Jaipur. The five-story "Palace of Winds" has a awe-inspiring honeycomb facade of pink gridded windows, white outlines and tiny green doors. Inside, you climb all five levels through a series of chambers to a courtyard looking out over the other highlights of the city including the City Palace, Jantar Mantar observatory and Jaigarh Fort
• The Hawa Mahal is more impressive from the outside. The best place to view intricate facade is across the street at the Wind View Cafe. There is a cover charge, but you can use it on food, so order a chai or lassi and enjoy the view
• Jantar Mantar — just a five-minute walk from the Hawa Mahal is an astronomical observation site built in the early 18th century. The Jantar Mantar is an open-air collection of giant yellow astronomy instruments built by a Maharaja who was obsessed with astronomy and astrology
• The giant yellow instruments are beautiful aesthetically, but hire a guide for ~400 rupees or $5 USD to provide background on how they actually work. There is a marble bowl used for reading the constellations, sighting holes for finding the North Star and a massive sundial that tells local Jaipur time to within two seconds. A very unique place to visit
• City Palace — right next to the observatory is the City Palace, complete with a series of huge courtyards painted bright yellow and pink. The palace is home to a variety of exhibits on textiles, Indian polo, miniature paintings of Hindu gods, and old photographs of the city
• The standout feature here are the doorways, each covered in flamboyant designs including the four porcelain gateways (the peacock gate is the famous one) and an immaculate four-story pink-and-white doorway
• Budget a half day to spend here. We lingered here far longer than originally planned
• Johari Bazaar — located right by Ajmeri Gate, the bazaar is mostly the same clothing and souvenirs stall after stall, so it's more about soaking in the streetscape than actually shopping
• The Many Forts of Jaipur — get a driver and plan a day to explore the many forts located in the hills overlooking Jaipur
• Amber Fort — the massive hilltop fort just outside the city and one of the highlights of Jaipur. Right on the outside, stop first at the lake viewpoint out front, where a zig-zag path climbs the hill and the elephants begin their ascent up the hill to the fortress
• Inside are enormous courtyards, a jewel-covered mirror palace and a hilltop Hindu temple that will take a couple hours to explore. Stop by the balconies with sweeping views over the city and admire the wall snaking along the ridge (said to be one of the longest in the world after the Great Wall)
• You'll see painted elephants coming through the main gate. However, riding them is not considered ethical, given the poor treatment of the elephants
• Panna Meena ka Kund (step well) — on the way up to Amber Fort, make sure to stop by the step well. Originally used as a water well by locals, this is one of the best photo stops with symmetrical criss-cross staircases that look like an optical illusion. The green water still has turtles and fish in it if you look closely enough
• Jaigarh Fort — a more red and run-down than Amber Fort. However, it has great views and is home to the Jaivana, once the largest cannon in the world that was fired a grand total of one time. Watch for the big black-faced monkeys and hunt down the "secret" courtyard for the best view back over Amber Fort and the city of Jaipur in the valley below
• Nahargarh Fort — another fort you can visit in Jaipur and the best sunset spot of the three. Head to the restaurant on the edge for a view over the whole sprawl of Jaipur. The foggy haze turned the sunset a deep orange the evening we went
• Jal Mahal (Water Palace) — a yellow palace sitting half-submerged in the middle of a lake, best seen at sunset. You can't actually visit it (the boat tours are suspended indefinitely), so it's a quick photo stop from the shore. Honestly a little underwhelming compared to the other forts, and the lakeshore itself was run-down and covered with trash

• Govindam — my favorite dining experience in India. Govindam is an upscale vegetarian restaurant near the Hawa Mahal. Get the Thali sampler: rice, naan and a row of curries, including a Rajasthani daal you crush cornmeal balls into. The food was incredible and we ended up paying ~$15 for the full meal

• Fairfield by Marriott Jaipur — an amazing 4 star hotel in Jaipur that was very clean and a nice break from . It was only ~$50 - 60 (not bad for a 4 star hotel!)

Varanasi is one of the holiest cities in India and one of the oldest living cities on Earth. It is the spiritual heart of India, important to Hindus and Buddhists, and revered across multiple faiths. People come from all over India to bathe on the banks of the sacred Ganges River. There are sacred rituals performed by Brahmin priests both in the early morning and late evening

The city is also home to a unique cremation tradition where it is believed that dying or being cremated in Varanasi grants moksha, or liberation from the cycle of rebirth. Many Indians save up their entire life to be cremated here and have their ashes scattered into the Ganges River. Hundreds of people are cremated here daily.

The city is fascinating, intense, chaotic and utterly unlike anywhere else I've been in the world. I would recommend spending at least 2 days here to learn about the traditions that have been going on for thousands of years.

• Walk the Ghats — the ghats are a series of stone steps leading down to the Ganges River and the spiritual centerpiece of Varanasi. There are over 80 ghats each with its own purpose including bathing, meditation, yoga and cremation. Two of the ghats, Manikarnika and Harishchandra, have funeral pyres burning 24 hours a day, 365 days a year
• The Unexpected Guide — I was wandering around solo watching the cremation ceremony at Manikarnika ghat from a distance when a man named Papu introduced himself and offered to explain the cremation ceremony for free. He claimed to doing these tours on a donation basis for underprivileged families so I reluctantly agreed (keeping in the back of my mind that I would only stay in public places)
• He explained to me the cremation ceremony in great detail from the family members wearing all white, head shaving ceremony, the untouchables looking for gold in the ashes, cracking the skull to release the spirit and much more. I won't go into all the details, but it was absolutely fascinating. I even walked with him into the Manikarnika Ghat and the cremation ceremonies were happening just a few feet away from us. It was one of the most surreal experiences ever
• I ended up donating about 1,000 rupees or $10 for his tour. I have been told after the fact by my friends from India that this may have been a scam. Keep your wits about you if you are offered a similar tour
• Watch the Ganga Aarti ceremony — everyday the Dashashwamedh Ghat hosts the evening Ganga Aarti fire ceremony starting around dusk. Brahmin priests train their entire lives and the most highly qualified ones are allowed to perform this ceremony. It last a few hours with the Priests dancing while holding heavy golden candelabras, playing the drums and chanting religious hymns. It was truly magic and an spectacular ceremony to witness. These ceremonies are free to attend and get very crowded so show up early to reserve a good seat
• Boat ride on the Ganges — take a boat for sunset along the Ganges river and pass by all the ghats in Varanasi. You'll see puja rituals, devotees bathing and cremation ceremonies at Manikarnika Ghat. One of the most interesting experiences to witness from the water and watch the set over the Ganges. I booked this Mysticism Tour with Boat Ride & Ganga Aarti tour for ~$20. The guide was knowledgeable and provided a lot of the cultural background explaining the traditions
• Kashi Vishwanath Temple (Golden Temple) — the most sacred Shiva temple in India. Entry is restricted for non-Hindus, but the maze of alleys around it with marigold sellers, chai stalls and pilgrims is an experience in itself
• Aghori subculture — a small, controversial Hindu sect who have made Varanasi their home for centuries. Their philosophy is built around the rejection of all social norms and the belief that nothing is impure, demonstrated through extreme practices including meditating on human corpses, covering their bodies in cremation ash and carrying human skulls as bowls. You can spot many of them wandering around Varanasi, known to have dreads, minimal clothing and covered in white ash

• Blue Lassi Shop — apparently the considered the best Lassi in India. Stop by for a thick mango and strawberry lassi topped with nuts. The restaurant was pretty cool with thousands of visitor photos. It is a very famous place in India and absolutely worth waiting in line
• Aadha-Aadha Café — a nice rooftop cafe with great Paneer Masala and Chai with a great view of the river and ghats below

• Wander Station Varanasi — a great hostel in Varanasi with a rooftop, cafe and common area. They also offer a variety of tours. I booked the temple tour which took us through many different neighborhoods of the city. A lot of domestic Indian tourists stay here so it is a great place to make friends with locals

These notes cover the northern Golden Triangle and Varanasi, but India is a whole subcontinent with much more to explore. Here are the spots highest on my list for a return trip:

• Udaipur — the romantic "City of Lakes" with its floating palaces located in the state of Rajasthan
• Jodhpur — another city located in Rajasthan known as the "blue city" and the gateway to the desert forts of the northwest
• Ladakh — the high-altitude desert in the far-northern Himalayas, a region of Buddhist monasteries, turquoise lakes and dramatic mountain passes, and a bucket-list spot for motorbiking the world's highest roads
• Rishikesh — the town in the Himalayan foothills located on the Ganges River. It is popular for white-water rafting and ashrams (yoga retreat centers). You can pair it with the Golden Temple at Amritsar

• Goa — the most popular beach destination in the country located on the West Coast of India. It is known for it's simultaneously laid-back and party atmosphere, a change of pace from the northern intensity
• Kerala — located in the far south. Stay on the houseboats parked on palm-lined backwaters and visit the tea plantations for a gentler, greener India